Have you ever heard of Domelette? It’s not a typo—Microsoft Word swiftly corrects typos as soon it spots them — but a unique dish that combines an omelette with a dosa.
And in the halcyon days of the 70s and the 80s, it’s just one of the many mouthwatering delights you could find at the India Coffee House in Sevagram ICH for short.

“Throwback to the good old days of the seventies when I was a medical student at MGIMS. After watching a late movie in Wardha, we’d head over to ICH for a budget-friendly and gratifying meal. Our go-to was the Domelette, an omelette served on a dosa. As soon as that waiter set it down on our table, we’d gobble it up in no time. The memory of that delectable omelette perched on a dosa, which left us feeling content without burning a hole in our pockets, is still fresh in my mind. Ah, the joys of being young, broke, and hungry!” Memories flooded the alumnus’s mind as he retraced the paths of his past.

“Agree totally,” said another alumnus who recently came to his alma mater for the batch reunion. ” Each ICH dish was a delight for the taste buds, and we savoured every morsel.”

History

Coffee lovers and history buffs, did you know that Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first Prime Minister, played a key role in shaping the ICH? Back in the 1950s, the Coffee Board planned to shut down several outlets. Workers protested because they were about to lose their jobs. Nehru suggested that the workers form a cooperative society to manage the coffee houses. The first Indian Coffee Workers Cooperative Society (ICWCS) was founded in Bangalore on August 19, 1957. Fast forward to today, the Indian Coffee House chain is run by various regional cooperatives and remains a popular spot for coffee and conversations among intellectuals across India.

But Nehru wasn’t the only hero in this story! AK Gopalan, a prominent communist leader, also fought for workers’ rights and was a key player in the cooperative society’s formation. He even became its first president! Who knew coffee could be so revolutionary?

The Delhi ICH at Connaught Place used to be regularly visited by Ram Manohar Lohia, Jayaprakash Narayan, Chandrashekhar, I. K. Gujral and several others. And VK Gupta reminded me recently that the Indian Coffee House in Allahabad used to attract authors, poets, and intellectuals such as Harivanshrai Bacchan, Firaq Gorakhpuri, Dharamvir Bharati, and Suryakant Tripathi ‘Nirala.

Many of the ICH workers were later transferred to Sevagram when the ICH there was established, ensuring the continuation of their exceptional care.

ICH arrives in Sevagram

The ICH, set up in 1975 at Sevagram, has had a rich history, changing hands four times over the course of 48 years. When the ICH was established in Sevagram, several workers from Nagpur’s ICH were relocated to Sevagram. Nestled between the boys’ and girls’ hostels, the ICH emerged as a hub of activity and excitement, standing tall and proud.

The ICH was manned by a loyal group of Kerala staff members, such as George Kutti, KK Shankaran, and M Vijay Kumar, who worked with unwavering commitment for many years. The Coffee House chain at Sevagram has changed several hands for over 48 years since its founding in 1975. Despite changes in leadership and ownership, the steadfast commitment of these remarkable Malayali staff members remained undeterred.

For thirteen years, the Sevagram ICH was managed by the cooperative society, but it eventually became financially unsustainable to keep the coffee house running. This has been a recurring problem: The ICH devotees in Nagpur were crestfallen upon discovering that the Indian Coffee House, which had been operating for fifty years in Sadar and Dharmapeth, had to shut down due to economic infeasibility.

In 1988, Mr George Kutti took over and ran the place for a decade until he quit in 1998. After that, the canteen space was taken over by the Mahila Mandal, and the counter was staffed by women, creating a more respectful environment. The rowdy behaviour was no longer allowed, and the senior students, known as “pillars,” were able to concentrate and pass their exams. However, this change also meant that the much-loved Domelette was no longer available, and the menu was limited to items like poha, bread pakoda, and aloo bonda. The once-vibrant ICH canteen had lost some of its sparkle.

The canteen was under the management of the Mahila Mandal for a span of four years. However, they chose not to continue, and the reins were handed back to the ICH cooperative society for reasons best known to them.

the ICH coffee house, once bustling with students and staff, suddenly faced a grim reality. Despite the Co-Operative Society’s best efforts to revive it in 2002, the rates proved unfeasible, and it had to close shop in 2007. But, as they say, every ending is a new beginning, and the hunt for a passionate coffee house owner continued.

In 2007, KK Sundaran, M Vijay Kumar, and Suresh Kumar took over the ICH, following in the footsteps of the likes of George Kutti, and KK Shankaran, who managed the ICH with pride and passion. Though George Kutty had to leave due to a stroke, M Vijay Kumar, and Suresh Kumar is still holding the fort and keeping the legacy alive.

In 1988, Mr George Kutti took up the challenge and managed the ICH for a decade. The Mahila Mandal later took over the canteen space and staffed it with women, creating a more respectful and inclusive environment. However, the menu became limited, and the much-loved omelette was no longer served.

In 2002, the ICH Co-Operative Society made a comeback, but it eventually had to say goodbye due to unviable rates. In 2007, a dedicated group of people including KK Sundaran, M Vijay Kumar, and Suresh Kumar took over and have been managing the ICH ever since. Despite changes in ownership, the ICH remains a beloved destination for coffee lovers and students alike.

So next time you’re in Sevagram, make sure to stop by the Indian Coffee House and experience its rich history for yourself!

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For the students of MGIMS, the Coffee House became more than just a place to eat; it became a hub of activity and excitement. Standing proudly between the boys’ and girls’ hostels, the ICH has become a beloved institution in Sevagram, with its rich history and dedicated staff members who continue to make it a special place. So, grab a cup of coffee and relish the unique atmosphere of this iconic coffee house!


The attire of the ICH staff was a notable feature that set it apart from other restaurants. The waiters’ dress code followed a standardized pattern across all 400 odd branches in the country, with each level of the hierarchy wearing distinctive clothing.

ICH Attire

When starting out as cleaners, the waiters’ uniforms consisted of a white shirt, white trousers, and a Gandhi cap. After being promoted to bearers, they donned a green belt and turban with a green band. And as they rose to the position of the head assistant bearer, a green patta was pinned to their chest, often with a golden-bordered green band on the turban.

Next up was the head bearer, distinguished by their red patta (or sash) and turban with a red band and golden border. At the top of the hierarchy were the supervisors, who wore crisp white cotton shirts and trousers.

Even the kitchen staff had a unique uniform, with khaki pants and caps completing their utilitarian attire. This fascinating dress code hierarchy added to the charm of the Indian Coffee House, making it a memorable and distinctive experience for all who visited. “We wondered if we were entering into a five-star hotel in Sevagram,” recalls Dr Hari Oam, MGIMS class of 1974.

The open area outside the coffee house was where the real action was. Old-style iron folding tables and chairs were set up, surrounded by bushes. This was the perfect spot for students and residents alike to spend hours lost in conversation or lost in love. ICH became the heart and soul of MGIMS, with almost everyone addressing them as Annas.

Memories

Dr Tarvinder Singh Uberoi (1976 batch) recalls, “As a first-year junior after you willfully endured ragging, you were taught to ask for the most expensive item on the menu, scrambled eggs when a senior generously offered to pay the bill.”

Dr VK Gupta, who graduated in 1980, told a story about the arrival of new students. ” It was a chaotic time, as the older students tried to get the attention of the first-year female students. However, these young women were smart and would only accept invitations if they could bring along a few friends, much to the chagrin of the hopeful Romeos, whose wallets and courage were put to the test. The canteen was not only a place to eat but also a popular hangout spot. Seniors would often pay for the meals of the diverse group of diners, making the canteen even more charming.”

There was the ever-smiling Balkrishna or BK, and then there were others who were ever-ready to lend a helping hand. Together, they wove a distinctive ambience in the cafe. According to an alumnus, the staff at ICH were so welcoming and kind that they would often end up staying past the closing time of 10 pm because they didn’t want to leave yet.

Even after all these years, the memories of ICH in Sevagram still flood back. For some, it’s like the gentle flow of a stream, beginning as a small trickle and eventually swelling into a flood of recollections. For others, it’s a forbidden haunt, a peculiar rule that persisted until the yearly Ganesh Cultural Fest.

Dr Rajnish Joshi (MGIMS alumnus, class of 1992) recalls: In 1992, the ICH was a place that newcomers avoided. As freshers, we feared to approach it, especially when seniors were present, which was always the case. Passing by without being called for ragging was a stroke of good luck.

The canteen was run by Mr George Kutty and his son, though I must admit, I cannot recall the latter’s name. Their signature dish was the omelette, which couldn’t be found anywhere else. Their omelette was the stuff of legends, unmatched by any other. Sadly, by 1995-96, Kutty faced financial troubles due to giving out excessive credit to students who did not pay up.

Between 1998 and 2002, the Mahila Mandal took over the canteen space, and the counter was now staffed by women. The rowdy behaviour that once prevailed was no longer allowed, leading to an environment that was more respectful and all-encompassing. During this time, the senior students, dubbed “pillars,” managed to pass their exams. As the loud and unruly behaviour decreased, there was less hooting, and the canteen became more inclusive for both men and women.

Unfortunately, the much-loved omelette was no longer being served, and the canteen menu only featured the same items as the Mahila Mandal canteen in the hospital, such as poha, bread pakoda, and aloo bonda. ICH seemed to have run out of juice.

With other options available in Wardha and Sevagram, the ICH had lost its charm as a “happening hub” by 2001.

Surely, ICH cannot compete with Cafe Coffee Day, Starbucks and other cafes. In an era of Fast food, the good old ICH simply cannot hold the fort. While the ICH may not be able to match the glitz and glamour of modern cafes like McDonald’s, Barista, Cafe Coffee Day and Starbucks, it still holds a special place in the hearts of the medical students at MGIMS. The memories of their time spent there is a testament to the ICH’s enduring legacy as a simple yet beloved food joint.